Bantham

The spot

Bantham sits where the River Avon meets the sea on the south Devon coast. The river current shapes the sandbanks into well-defined peaks that offer more structure than your average beach break. On its day it produces steep, hollow A-frames with a particularly good left running along the river channel. The setting is beautiful, with rolling green farmland behind and the estuary cutting through the sand.

When it works

Needs a south-westerly groundswell pushing up the English Channel. Works best in the 3-5ft range with an easterly or north-easterly offshore wind. The autumn and winter months (September to April) are most consistent. Smaller summer swells can still produce fun waves on the banks closest to the river mouth.

Where to sit

The best peaks usually form where the river current meets the incoming swell. On a pushing tide the left along the river channel is the pick, offering longer rides. The banks shift seasonally but the river always provides some structure. Avoid sitting too deep in the channel itself as the current will pull you out.

Hazards

The river current is the main concern. It runs hard on the outgoing tide and can sweep inexperienced surfers out to sea. Rip currents form either side of the main bank and shift as the tide moves. The banks can be steep enough to produce heavy lip landings on bigger days. Keep an eye on the tide tables; the spot transforms completely between low and high water.

Parking and access

The car park is privately run and charges a fee. In summer it fills early with beachgoers but in surf season there is plenty of space. From the car park it is a five-minute walk across the dunes to the beach. The National Trust owns much of the surrounding land.

The crowd

Busy on good weekends from spring onwards, especially when Fistral and the north coast are flat. The local crew know the banks well. On clean autumn swells midweek you can score it with only a handful of others. Summer weekends bring bodyboarders and swimmers into the mix.

Local tips

The two hours either side of low tide usually produce the best-shaped waves on the main bank. If the river mouth left is too crowded, walk south along the beach where quieter peaks often go unridden. The pub in Bantham village is a fine post-surf pint.